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To start off I would like to say that it is my firm belief that nothing is perfectly flat, straight or in tune. Everything on earth seems to always be a little bit off. This includes myself from what I have been told.

That being said, hand-planing the thin stock used for dulcimer tops, backs, sides and fretboards requires a flat bench.

I bought this bench several years ago for a very reasonable price. It is made of some type of tropical hardwood and the top was made by gluing up small pieces, often with finger-joints. It has a descent quick-release vise and a usable but less than desirable tail vise

The core of the top is about 1″ thick with a thicker skirt around the edges. I have leveled it before and I know that being laminated from many small pieces makes following any sense of grain direction just about impossible. Luckily it is a bench, not fine furniture. A little tear-out will not be a problem.

First comes the hard part; clearing all the crap stuff off the bench!

The #7 plane resting on the bench will be doing the brunt of the work. All the planes on this project have back bevels to achieve a 55 degree cutting angle. This leaves a clean and smooth surface but requires more effort to push the plane.

My #8 was the first tool of choice. I recently flattened the sole  but after putting a thicker blade it in is has become untrue. Another adventure for another day.

Bench before planing with the #7 that will do most of the work

Next came taking off the vise. This was very easy.

Taking off the quick-release vise

There are no action shots of me planing with the #7 plane. You aren’t missing anything other than watching a sweaty middle-aged guy get a good physical workout. Most of the planing was done cross-grain at varying angles.

I used a #5 plane for a while to clean things up a bit and then switched to a #4 to take down the odd high spot and remove most of the marks left by the previous planes. Again, it is a bench and is already pretty dinged up so I was not going for a furniture quality finish.

Cleaning up the worst of the plane marks from the #7 with a #4

The area near the tail vise was significantly lower than the rest of the bench. I did not want to take off too much wood from the top so I chose to scribe a line showing where the low area was. This was not absolutely necessary but there are those fuzzy days when a reminder of where not to go and what not to do can come in handy!

I usually put a piece of wood between the dog in the tail vise and the stock I’m working on so this will not be a problem in practice. The stock will still be over a flat part of the bench.

A mark scribed to show the low part of the bench by the tail vise

After that came a coat of oil, some sore muscles and a feeling of satisfaction.

A fresh coat of oil and time for a break Leveling The Top Of My Workbench

Well, my bench will be out of commission for a good part of the day while the oil dries.  Now what do I do?

Maybe I’ll go for a walk.

 

I wonder as I wander

The full title of this book is, “Field Book Of American Trees And Shrubs: A Concise Description Of  The Character And Color Of Species Common Throughout The United States, Together With Maps Showing Their General Distribution.” I guess they were into long titles in 1915!Field Book Of American Trees And Shrubs

Woodworkers and luthiers could not do what they do without tress. This book had beautiful drawings, painting and information about many species of trees including some that might now be scarce or gone.

This book in brought to you as a free PDF for download at the always wonderful Internet Archive.

Get your copy here: “Field Book Of American Trees And Shrubs ” by F. Schuyler Mathews (1915)

My shop used to be a bedroom, a small bedroom. It is what a realtor would describe as being “cozy and intimate.”

I work primarily with hand tools so most of my time is spent standing or sitting by the bench.

The bench - the place where all the magic happens

I tend to multitask so there are several things in the works in this picture; I am prepping a cherry dulcimer for the final coat of finish and sharpening a few tools.

Planes and planes and planes and bending forms and wood and stuff

Here you can see a bunch of planes, tonewood waiting to become dulcimers, some bent sides, bending forms and some other stuff. That $5 halogen light has made working at night much easier.

There is a wall I haven’t shown that is also covered with tools and a closet filled with supplies; glues, finishes, sandpaper, more wood, a small drill press, etc.

I am very comfortable working in my shop. In the future I may move it to a larger room so that I can work on a few more instruments at a time but for now this setup works well.

I have a bandsaw in the garage and a small tablesaw in the basement that are used primarily for resawing and preparing a few parts of a dulcimer. I don’t use them much in my day-to-day work so it is not much of an inconvenience to go to the machines as needed.

On the other hand, I think I might try the following method of making my machines portable someday.

I might try making my machinery portable someday

 

Musical bows are most likely the original stringed instrument.musical bow

Some are played in a fashion similar to the Jew’s harp; the player’s mouth is used as a resonator and by changing the shape of the mouth different harmonics are emphasized to produce melody.

Some musical bows are designed to allow defining notes by fingering the length of the string, some are played with a slide, some are struck as a melodic percussion instrument and others are designed to combine these techniques.

musical bow with bells

The simplicity of the musical bow is the beauty of the musical bow.

Download your copy here courtesy of Google Books:

“The Natural History Of The Musical Bow by Henry Balfour (1899)


This information applies to dulcimers as well as any wooden stringed instrument.

Wood, no matter how well seasoned, will continue to expand and contract with changes in humidity.

wood shrinkage

One of the primary causes of damage to stringed instruments is dehydration. An instrument can dry out in a remarkably short period of time.  As the wood becomes dry it shrinks and sooner or later a seam may separate, the wood may crack, frets and braces might become loose, fingerboards may warp, etc.

During Winter the heat in our homes usually lowers the humidity. If you live in a dry climate you are dealing with low humidity year-round.

There are two ways to keep your instrument from drying out. One method is to humidify your home, or at least the room where you keep your instruments. The other is to use a small humidifier that fits in your instrument or the case and keep the instrument in its case. A combination of humidifying the environment and the instrument inside the case is ideal.

An inexpensive hygrometer can read the humidity within a room or instrument case. I use an electronic hygrometer in my shop that cost less than $30 and it is very accurate.

If you have extra musicians about the house it is also important to keep them from dehydrating during the dry Winter months. Below is an illustration of an appropriate cabinet for storing two musicians and several instruments.

Proper storage of musicians during the dry Winter months.

A bowl of water placed in the cabinet will provide humidity for both the musicians and their instruments.  Also very important is the drilling of several holes in the cabinet to provide air for the enclosed musicians. I regret that I once neglected to do so several Winters ago.


I envy my friends my woodworker friends who make things other than musical instruments. Even the pickiest of them often come home from a sawmill with beautiful, usable wood. For stringed instruments the choices quickly narrow down. For most parts of a dulcimer I will only use quarter sawn wood.

Quarter sawn log

I generally have a hard time finding quartered wood because it is more expensive for the mill to cut. Often I may only find the few boards that came out quartered during the sawing process.

Typical sawing pattern

Once I find quartered wood I dig through the piles to find stock of usable dimensions. Often lumber will be too narrow, too short, or too thin to yield enough slices when resawing. After finding quartered lumber of usable dimensions I check the wood for run out, bang on it to get an idea of how resonant it will be, check for flaws, etc. If I’m lucky I’ll find a few pieces that meet my requirements. At that point I look for grain and figure that I find appealing.

Here’s some walnut that will soon be milled for fretboards and other parts.

Quartered walnut that will become dulcimer fretboards and other parts

Once it is squared up and rough sawn I let it age and work out any internal tension that may cause it to warp before bringing it to final dimensions. Usually a certain percentage of the wood, hopefully low, will not prove to be stable enough to use.

I usually do my own resawing on a 14″ bandsaw but recently these two guys, Horatio and Zebediah showed up at my door asking for work. “What kind of work do you do,” I asked. “Resawing wood the old way, the good way, the hard way,” they replied in unison, which kind of  freaked me out a bit.

Resawing lumber

It seemed that fate had stepped in. I was able to help these two joyful wanderers find suitable employment while freeing up some of my time to search for more wood!

 

Seeing Sound

Illustrations from “Sound” by John Tyndall (1915) via Google Books.




More fun facts to know and tell provided by Google Books.

Walnut from "The Tree Book."

The Tree Book: A Popular Guide To A Knowledge Of The Trees Of North America by Julia Ellen Rogers (1905)

I did not work on dulcimers for about two weeks. I was recovering from gallbladder surgery followed by bronchitis. None of this is a big deal but I had to take it easy for a while.

But now I am back to my old tricks and have picked up where I left off on three dulcimers. I really missed working in the shop!

I glued the back on this cherry and walnut dulcimer this afternoon.

dulcimer 102 in progress

Tonight it get’s a peghead and then it will join two others that are ready for scraping, sanding, finishing and fretting.

Zelda and Fifi anxiously await the new dulcimers!

Zelda and Fifi dance with joy awaiting three new dulcimers!!

More news as the story develops!


Another gem from the Internet Archive, 507 Mechanical Movements has detailed llustrations of gears, pulleys, water-wheels and all the marvels of modern technology in 1908.

507 Mechanical Movements - block and tackle illustrations

507 mechanical Movements - page 34

Get your copy here: 507 Mechanical Movements by Henry T. Brown

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